Saturday, May 24, 2014

Ecuador 2012 Throw Back


As Hallie and I are still friends and have a great amount of respect for each other we decided this trip was too good not to be shared.  I hope you enjoy it.  Ecuador is one of the best countries I've ever been too and I've been able to go twice.

I added some of the prices of goods because to me part of being able to relax is not having to pawn my arm to afford an enjoyable trip. This was a truly relaxing trip for Hallie and I. We had both returned from Afghanistan, made major moves to a new state along with a new job change for each of us. This was a time for relaxing!

We started our trek in San Antonio, TX, flying to Houston and from Houston (where I walked around making fart noises) we landed in Quito at around 11pm. We did not change time zones which is nice. For those of you who don't know Ecuador is on the Equator (who would have guessed) and is on the Pacific side of South America. Ecuador is bordered by Columbia, Peru and the Pacific Ocean. Ecuador has the famous Galapagos Islands and is where the oddly named Panamanian Hat originated.

Upon arrival we exited the aircraft up a long ramp at a fairly drastic angle. I think they put the ramp at a big angle so that you quickly realize that you are at 9350ft. Yes my Colorado people we landed in a city much higher than the Mile High City. Can you imagine playing football there? We made to an area overlooking customs and stood while the line died down. For a business idea I'd like to set up shop selling drinks and marijuana brownies here as the wait was a good 2 hours and then we had a 30 minute ride to our B and B. We didn't get to bed until 0230, but we slept well.

The B and B Tumbaco was quiet when we showed up, our cabin was lit up on the outside and the curtains we had were somewhat sheer. I never figured out how to turn those lights off. Despite the light and the extremely hard bed we slept like rocks. We went up to the main house for breakfast at 0900. We were met by two very friendly Ecuadorian women who spoke zero English and understood even less. Between Hallie's Spanish and my strange gesturing we managed. I had fruit, yogurt and bread with jam both mornings and Hallie had eggs with tomatoes and onions, and bread with jam. We also had freshly squeezed mango juice and coffee. The coffee was nice and strong and that matters!

B and B Tambuco main

First Morning at the B and B Tambuco

B and B Tambuco garden area

The main house was wide open with large tiles, wood beamed ceilings, plants large windows, built in shelving and even a wine cellar. The back of the house had a beautiful garden with pool, sauna and whirlpool. The owners didn't want those amenities used unless they were informed before hand. We were so busy in Quito that we didn't bother with the hassle.

Our Cabin at B and B Tambuco

That morning we went to Old Town Quito and walked around the square people watching (Hallie and I both share a love for people watching) and looking at the old well kept architectural structures. Quito was the first city to be called a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978 and when you are there you realize why. The structures from the streets to the Catholic churches are amazing.

Here is a museum and church we visited:



Church Dome From Museum Roof

We had a meal outside of the museum. We sat out on the patio under an umbrella people watching, enjoying the temperate weather and great conversation. The food was art for the palate and the beer was cold.


The cafe outside the museum


After talking to Gerrit the owner of B and B Tambuco we figured out places to try to find good weather on the coast. Armed with some local information I went to searching for flights to the coast. We were limited because we were buying tickets less than 24 hours before our flight. Despite that fact our tickets were less than $150 a piece. I first bought tickets to the wrong place, after discovering that I could not get through to the airlines. I was tired and annoyed with myself, thankfully Hallie was laid back and not kicking me in the nuts about it. We slept and the next morning armed with renewed energy I was able to change the tickets for zero cost. Simply amazing. We flew out at 3pm to Guayaquil. Can you imagine the airlines in the U.S. giving us that kind of treatment? It was a wonderful surprise.

We took a taxi to Quito, had lunch at the airport and took a short flight to Guayaquil. Both of us seemed to sense that we were in a new world at the airport. It was confirmed by our taxi driver and the drive to our hostel, Casa De Romeo. The hostel itself is two apartments in an apartment building. The place was clean and well run by the ladies that checked us in and out. The people in Guayaquil were not the quaint, humble, warm people of Quito.

We decided to leave Guayaquil as soon as possible so after checking in we looked at a map and then looked at cities on the coast close to Guayaquil. We found Playa and Salinas. After more research on Trip Advisor we sent emails to a hostel in each city and because Andie said she could arrange a taxi from door step to door step for $45 we decided on Salinas. BTW Trip Advisor is amazing and anyone can find what they are looking for by reading the experiences of others. We knew what we wanted and we sensed that Big Ralph's Hostel and Restaurant was for us. It was a block from the beach, it was run by a family, the Ralph was a British chef, Andie a local.

We still had a night in Guayaquil and we decided to make the best of it. We took a walk along the Malecon and enjoyed dinner on the roof of a quaint little restaurant. We, again, were surprised by the price. Hallie had a rice and shrimp meal, I had rib eye and for an appetizer we had nachos. They had a whole steak cut up on them, cheese, sour cream, olives and jalapenos. The nachos were a meal. We had three beers each and paid under $50 for the meal in the biggest city in Ecuador on the boardwalk. WOW!

Sweaty at the top of Las Penas

After dinner we decided to take a walk to Las Penas. Las Penas is a walk up 444 steps to a lighthouse and a church. It seems every major sight in Ecuador has or is a church. We walked down the Malecon and down a narrow cobblestone street where we found a gallery. We bought three paintings, two of which look like the area we bought them in. The more I look at the paintings the more I like them and I loved them the moment I laid eyes on them.


Cobblestone Art Street

We believed we could sense from our research that Andie and Ralph would be great people. We were right, thankfully they were incredible people, Ralph married a lovely Ecuadorian woman and the entire family was warm and welcomed us with open arms.

The Amazing Ralph, Andie and Family

Salinas was the highlight of our trip and much of it had to do with Ralph and his family. We took many beach walks, ate at a few nice places none that could compete with Ralph's. Carlos, Ralph's father in law, took us to Puntilla De Santa Ellana to see seals, La Chocolatera to see the furthest western point of Ecuador and to the Del Mar Museum. The first two places are on the Ecuador Air Force, Navy base. Carlos works there so we were privy to two sights that most tourists will never see. We had a great time even though we speak very little Espanol and he spoke even less English.

 On Military Base

 Salinas Beach

 Museum Restaurant

 Goofing off on base

 On base

 Hallie and Carlos on Base

 Salinas sand castle


 Look at the size of that!  One kid did this


Sea shells Salinas

The day we flew back to Quito we woke up had breakfast prepared by Ralph, visited with the family, exchanged information, said our good byes before Ralph and Andie took their daughter to dance lessons. Hallie and I then went for a walk down the beach. After that we showered, went around the corner for some ice cream and then hopped in the van for a ride back to Guayaquil. We had lunch at the airport while waiting for the flight, the lunch was cheap as usual and the seats comfortable. We flew to Quito and stayed at the Best Western Palace and Casino.


Best Western Palace 3 a.m. Hallie may kill me for this one

The Best Western Palace and Casino Quito is not your run of the mill U.S. Best Western. It is a 3 to 4 star hotel. A bit out of date, but classically done and for us that never goes out of style. It had character, great art, flowers, and good furniture.

I ordered room service:
2 orders of fajitas, 1 plate of fruit, 1 plate of fried bananas, 2 tres leches cakes (3 milks cake) and all of that was under $50. The fajitas were delicious and we even sort of drank the juice like a soup after we finished. Hallie was stuffed and I was satisfied.

Our view from the room was of the biggest park in Quito and of the city and a nice hill side community further off. The view was beautiful in the light and also in the dark. The bed, living space and bathroom were comfortable and well done. The room cost under $100 and was fairly close to the airport. From time to time I am a big fan of luxury in lieu of character. This place had both luxury and character in my opinion.

Angel on hill Quito

Hallie was the best travel partner I've ever had. She was realistic, easy going, and positive. I spent seven days with a woman who made every experience better. Not once did I wish I had privacy or time alone. Not once did I think the trip would have been more enjoyable alone, our experiences were enhanced by each others company. Hallie and I remain friends and are living amazing lives. I've moved to Savannah, GA my favorite U.S. City, she lives in Texas and recently closed on a house.

Ecuador is what is right in the world. The people are warm and friendly, there are so many fruit trees that anyone can eat for free. The homeless all work doing something, anything to earn money. The weather is temperate, in a half an hour plane ride you can be at the ocean or in the Andes Mountains.  

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